More overcast weather but not raining :). It was about 3 miles to our next village at Porthleven and by then we were desperate for breakfast refreshments (not wanting to attempt the lumpy tea thing again). In addition to the lumps, I had the added fortune of a diesel-like taste in my new, fancy titanium mug, which provides either boiling hot tea initially or cold tea within minutes - no grey areas for my mug. But it was chosen for the cool factor, as it is super light and has an orange plastic, detachable "hot lips" stuck to the rim for the initial burn factor. Curt always looks very smug (no pun intended) when drinking from his mug which was appreciably cheaper, has a lid to avoid the inevitable swimming pool of snails and slugs (forgot to mention that benefit with my mug) and keeps the tea temperature just "perfect" so Curt says.
The harbour at Porthleven is pictured below and we ate at a cafe overlooking this. Breakfast for me was another cheese and tomato sandwich with salt n vinegar crisps inside for and added crunch. This seems to be my new craving of choice. Curt is sticking with the veggie breakfast. And of course coffee for both of us. We have moved on from wine gums and fruit pastels and no longer have a constant supply of them in our packs. We may have got the fish n' chip thing out of our systems too but I think the pasty craving could last a while as there are so many options and so filling any yummy.
The path then took us along Porthleven beach, a long stretch of sand with a beautiful inland lake cut off from the sea by the Loe bar, a dam build up of pebbles, shale and sand.
We decided not to go through this gate. Wonder why?!
This beautiful little church was tucked into the cliffs on the sands at an aptly named Church Cove.
A few coves on across the cliffs we reached our destination for the day at Mullion Cove.
Through Facebook I have reconnected with a friend that I haven't seen for 26 years. Both Curt and I worked with Gabe at Alpine Sports in London and he is now living here in this little Cornish village. Walking into Mullion we did our usual arrival fanfare of walking stick rhythms until Gabe came out to meet us (his wife had apparently driven past us and had told Gabe that she thought his friends were arriving!) and lead us back to his beautiful home in the centre of the village. A labour of love over the last several years, this home originally dates back to the 14th century and more recently it was a shop. Apparently it was a department store owned by a progressive woman from London and the first place to have electricity in Mullion. Gabe has done some major renovations and it is now a gorgeous home for his family with rock walls, tall elaborately corniced ceilings, a walled court yard, out buildings and holiday let above. Gabe and Merryn have four children, two grown, eleven year old Frank and little Sorel who is six and as beautiful as her name. They are fully into the swing of village life and I was eager to learn all about this, having drooled over many issues of my favourite magazine, Country Living (UK version of course). I was glad to find out that village life really does still exist. Merryn sings in the choir, Gabe closes up the church at night, there is a building dedicated to the Women's Institute (WI - an iconic organisation founded in 1915 to revitalise rural communities and empower women to campaign for their communities and their rights and to learn new skills - the movie Calendar Girls comes to mind as I think they are in WI meeting in the beginning scene), a busy post office, village store open all hours and a couple of pubs. A heavenly place to live by my standards.
In the evening we visited the Cadgwith Arms in a little village across the Lizard bay. Only 15 minutes by car but a couple of days away for us on the SWCP. We felt honoured to be present for an age old tradition of the Friday night Cadgwith singers. A bunch of fishermen and whoever else wants to pack into a small bar (leather straps are attached to the beams so the singers can hang on when the place gets really packed)and sing old shanty songs and sound absolutely magnificent. Apparently the main singers weren't present tonight as they were in the scilly Isles for a big rowing event but it was still a wonderful experience.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
That scenery is just so stunning! And to wake up in the morning and take it all in--must be heavenly.
ReplyDeleteI'm really enjoying your posts--keep them coming when you get a chance. But remember, your primary job is to enjoy yourselves.